There are many reasons you may need to install a handrail. You may be selling your house, renovating your home, or being asked by your insurance company.
Whatever the reason, here is a comprehensive guide that will help you understand the codes that apply, the ways to get the handrail you need, and how to install your handrail when you have it.
Here is what you’ll learn:
- Codes: Learn what codes apply to you.
- Stairways: When is a handrail needed on a stairway and how should it be built.
- Ramps: The same as stairways but for ramps.
- Design: How you can use pipe and fittings to design your handrail.
- Acquisition: How you can get the handrail you need to install.
- Installation: How to install your handrail once you receive it.
What Codes Apply to Handrails for My Home?
It’s important to understand that residential and building codes are specific to your local region. This could be the city you’re in or the state. The good news is that most local codes adopt what is written by the International Code Council (ICC).
The ICC develops codes and standards to establish a baseline for safety in the building industry. It is NOT a governing authority, but most local governments in the US and Canada adopt these standards.
This makes it easier to use what you learn here to navigate your local code as the chapters and sections are often the same.
What types of code are there?
There are two different code sets that may apply to you. There is building code and residential code.
The International Building Code (IBC) covers all structures, unless another code is more specific. This is where the residential code comes. The International Residential Code (IRC) focuses on one- and two-family dwelling homes.
For the purposes of this guide, we’ll be focusing on the IRC to help home owners, helping family members, and contractors who need help with handrails for homes.
How to find your local code?
To find the code that pertains to you, start with googling “[Insert City] Residential Code”. If you can’t find anything for your city listed. Then change from your city to your state.
What is the purpose of residential code?
The purpose of the IRC is to set the minimum standard of safety in a home. This goes beyond wanting to just protect the inhabitants and their guests. The IRC also considers the needs of emergency personnel that will access your home in the event of an emergency.
This guide is only focused on how handrails help with the safety of the home. Handrails are horizontal rails used for support and guidance in the home. These are not to be confused with guardrails, which are barriers to falling to a lower level.
Handrails in the IRC are required in two situations: stairs and ramps.
What is the Handrail Code Requirement for Stairs?
Chapter 3 Building Planning
Section R311 Means of Egress
Where required by this code or provided, stairways shall comply with this section.
R311.7.1 Width.
Stairways shall be not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in clear width at all points above the permitted handrail height and below the required headroom height. The clear width of stairways at and below the handrail height, including treads and landings, shall be not less than 31-1/2 inches (787 mm) where a handrail is installed on one side and 27 inches (698 mm) where handrails are installed on both sides.
R311.7.8 Handrails.
Handrails shall be provided on not less than one side of each flight of stairs with four or more risers.
R311.7.8.1 Height.
Handrail height, measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing, or finish surface of ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches (864 mm) and not more than 38 inches (965 mm).
R311.7.8.2 Handrail projection.
Handrails shall not project more than 4-1/2 inches (114 mm) on either side of the stairway.
R311.7.8.3 Handrail clearance.
Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) between the wall and the handrails
R311.7.8.4 Continuity.
Handrails shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned toward a wall, guard walking surface continuous to itself, or terminate to a post.
R311.7.8.5 Grip size.
Required handrails shall be of one of the following types or provide equivalent graspability.
- Type I. Handrails with a circular cross section shall have an outside diameter of not less than 1-1/4 inches (32 mm) and not greater than 2 inches (51 mm). If the handrail is not circular, it shall have a perimeter of not less than 4 inches (102 mm) and not greater than 6-1/4 inches (160 mm) and a cross section of not more than 21 inches (57 mm). Edges shall have a radius of not less than 0.01 inch (0.25 mm).
- Type II. Handrails with a perimeter greater than 6-1/4 inches (160 mm) shall have a graspable finger recess area on both sides of the profile. The finger recess shall begin within ¾ inch (19 mm) measured vertically from the tallest portion of the profile and have a depth of not less than 5/16 inch (8 mm) within 7/8 inch (22 mm) below the widest portion of the profile. This required depth shall continue for not less than ⅜ inch (10 mm) to a level that is not less than 1-3/4 inches (45 mm) below the tallest portion of the profile. The width of the handrail above the recess shall be not less than 1-¼ inches (32 mm) and not more than 2-3/4 inches (70 mm). Edges shall have a radius of not less than 0.01 inch (0.25 mm)
There are a lot of numbers in this code. Here are the quick highlights for your convenience.
- Stairs with 4 or more risers need a handrail on at least one side.
- Stairs with one handrail need a 31-½ inch wide clearance. Stairs with a handrail on each side need a 27 inch wide clearance.
- The height of the handrail needs to be 34 to 38 inches above the stair tread.
- Handrails cannot protrude more than 4-½ inches from the side of the stairway.
- Handrails need a 1-½ inch clearance from the wall.
- Round handrails should be 1-¼ inches to 2 inches in diameter.
- Other shaped handrails need a perimeter between 4 inches and 6-¼ inches. No cross section should be more than 2-¼ inches.
- Check local code for handrails that are bigger than 6-¼ inches in diameter (Type II).
- No breaks in the handrail from the bottom riser to the top riser.
- Handrails should terminate into a post, wall, or the walking surface.
All of this may make sense to you. If that’s you, then feel free to move on to the next section. If it doesn’t, don’t worry. I’ll explain some of the potentially confusing bits.
When code says that the handrail cannot protrude more than 4-½ inches, it’s referring to how that handrail may eat into the required clear width of a stairway. This would be measured from the side edge of the stair to the farthest point of the handrail, so that the total handrail is within 4-½ inches of the edge.
The inches associated with schedule 40 pipe tend to be identifiers and normally refer to the inside diameter. So, if you buy 1-½ schedule 40 pipe, then the outside diameter is typically 1.9 inches. This is what matters for code.
Handrails should not extend past any end post unless they mount into a wall or turn back and mount into the post. If you use pipe and fittings, it is easy to find a style that you can cut the pipe right at the edge of the post, so that it complies with this standard.
Contact an expert if you still are not sure what to do.
What is the Handrail Code Requirement for Ramps?
Chapter 3 Building Planning
Section R311 Means of Egress
Where required by this code or provided, ramps shall comply with this section.
R311.8.3 Handrails required.
Handrails shall be provided on not less than one side of ramps exceeding a slope of 1 unit vertical in 12 units horizontal (8.33-percent slope).
R311.8.3.1 Height.
Handrail height, measured above the finished surface of the ramp slope, shall be not less than 34 inches (864 mm) and not more than 38 inches (965 mm).
R311.8.3.2 Grip size.
Handrails on ramps shall comply with Section R311.7.8.5.
R311.8.3.3 Continuity.
Handrails where required on ramps shall be continuous for the full length of the ramp. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals.
Handrails adjacent to a wall shall have a space of not less than 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) between the wall and the handrails.
Ramps and stairs share a lot of similarities when it comes to handrails. However, there are some important differences. Here is a quick list:
- Ramps with slopes greater than 1/12 need a handrail on at least one side.
- The height of the handrail should be 34 to 38 inches from the ramp surface.
- Round handrails should be 1-¼ inches to 2 inches in diameter.
- Other shaped handrails need a perimeter between 4 inches and 6-¼ inches. No cross-section should be more than 2-¼ inches.
- Check local code for handrails that are bigger than 6-¼ inches in diameter (Type II).
- No breaks in the handrail for the full length of the ramp.
- Handrails should terminate into a newel post or safety terminal.
- Handrails need a 1-½ inch clearance from the wall.
A slope of 1/12 just means that for every 12 inches in length, the ramp rises 1 inch. This is just under 5 degrees in slope.
A newel post refers to the posts at the head or foot of a stairway that supports a handrail. A safety terminal refers to the end of the rail being designed so that nothing can get snagged on it or users are punctured by it.
If you have more questions, then contact an expert to help you sort through your local requirements.
How to Design Your Handrail with Pipe and Fittings
Step One: Inspect Installation Site
This may seem obvious, but there is more to it than just looking at the place where you will install your handrail. First, clean the area where you plan on installing a handrail. Dust and debris could hide some potential risks to your installation, like crumbling concrete.
Once that is done, you will want to determine where your handrail can be supported. Look for locations on the ground for posts to be installed or spaces on a wall or existing structure where the handrail can be mounted. Look at the condition of these locations. Don’t consider warped and rotten stairs as a good connection point. Also, be wary of crumbling brick or vinyl siding for wall mounts.
Step Two: Measurements and Layout
Now that you know where your handrail is going to connect, it’s time to measure out the handrail. Measure from your end to end based on where the final mounts or posts will be for your handrail. Don’t forget to turn corners if you have corners that you need to consider.
If you’re not sure how to do this, there are a couple of ways.
- Use a tape measure. If you don't have a rigid tape measure or you want to increase your accuracy, then grab a friend.
- Tie some string to a stick and place that stick on one end of the handrail location. Pull out the string to the other end of the handrail and mark it off. Measure the marked off distance. Repeat as necessary.
During measurement is a good time to determine how many connections you need and where they will go specifically. Posts are best when you don’t have an existing structure, like a wall, that you can or want to mount into. There are fittings that can allow the handrail to terminate directly into a wall or mount on the face of the wall, so the handrail is parallel to the structure’s face.
It’s important to note that you can mix and match these styles as it best suits your location. You can contact an expert if you are not sure how this will work best for you.
Step Three: Determine a Fittings Style
Now that you know where your handrail will connect and if it will be into an existing structure or require a post, it’s time to figure out what fittings will do that.
Check out our handrail kits first because the handrail you need may already be designed. If not, then it will help you understand how our fittings can be used in a handrail design.
You can find adjustable fittings or fixed ones. This will depend on the way you want your handrail to look. If you choose a fixed style, then knowing the slope of your stairs is important.
You’ll want two posts or wall connections for your handrail. Add another post every time you pass six feet on your handrail. As an example, 5 feet would be 2 posts and 8 feet would be 3 posts.
Step Four: Choose a Finish
The last thing that you need for your design is the finish of your handrail. You can choose an industrial galvanized steel finish. Or, you can have the galvanized steel powder coated. It’s not required for longevity but can add a nice flare to your handrail.
There are a lot of colors to choose from when powder coating your handrail. The best way to help us understand what color your want is by looking at an RAL color chart. Remember that computer monitors may change the way that colors appear based on your settings. So, if you need it to be very specific, then check for color coding based on the color you're trying to match or get a physical copy of an RAL color chart.
Powder coating does add cost and time to the project. However, you can paint the handrail yourself. Just make sure that the paint you use is designed to work on galvanized steel.
How to Buy the Handrail You Need
There are two ways for you to buy a handrail. You can purchase a handrail kit or you can buy the individual pipe and fittings from your own design. Either way, you don’t have to do this on your own. Don’t hesitate to contact an expert.
How to Install Your Handrail After You Receive It
Getting Everything Ready
First things first, gather all of the necessary tools, materials, and hardware. Here is a list of the tools you'll need to install your handrail.
- A hammer drill with a ½" Masonry Bit
- A 5/16” allen key
- A rubber mallet and a hammer
- A ½" Wrench
- A power drill with bits that include phillips head, flat, and bits that can core into steel if you chose a kit that doesn't use all set screws
- Don't forget to buy hardware if you didn't buy a kit.
Prepping the Railing and Drilling Holes
Clean the surfaces where the handrail will be installed.
Test fit all the railing and parts. Place your flanges and the posts within them. Make sure that the pipe for the handrail will sit properly on the post. If you need to cut any pipe, this is when you will mark the lengths you need for the handrail.
Mark holes for each base. Drill the anchor holes and vacuum the dust from the holes.
Place the flanges and insert the anchors, using the hammer to tap them into place. Use the wrench to tighten the anchors, attaching them to the concrete.
Assembling the Handrail
Insert the posts into the flange and tighten down the set screws.
Install the top fittings for each post and install the railing. Tighten the set screws
Hammer in the end caps for each open pipe face, including the posts.
Double check screws and bolts are tightened down.
Enjoy your new handrail!
