DIY Laminate Flooring Table Top Desk
Often times, the only way to get exactly what you need, is to do-it-yourself. That's exactly the thought Ryan had, when he built this unique corner desk using Kee Klamps, pipe, and laminate flooring.
Building the Table Top
First, Ryan started off by cutting a 3/4" sanded plywood board down to size and set it up on sawhorses.
From there, Ryan then took a blowtorch to the narrow oak boards, used for the table top edges, to create a burnt effect. He then cut the oak edges to size and nailed them to the edge of the plywood, keeping the bottom edge of the trim flush with the bottom of the plywood. This essentially gave Ryan a frame to work with.
For the finished table top, Ryan used Pergo laminate flooring. He cut the tongue-and-groove boards down to length and fit them tightly inside the oak edges/table top frame. He then ripped the foam backing off the laminate flooring, so that it would adhere well to the plywood using glue.
Then, Ryan used glue adhesive to attach the boards to the plywood base and clamped them down around the table top edges. He also placed a weight in the middle of the table top. Ryan left the setup to dry for 48 hours.
Once the glue was dry, and the boards properly secured, Ryan moved onto creating a faded effect for the table top. To do this, Ryan used dark brown and black Minwax stain pencils around the outer edges of the flooring. He then rubbed the stain in using a shop towel. The stain also helped to clean up the rough spots made from cutting the flooring to size.
With that out of the way, Ryan moved onto adding the final finish to the table top.
First, Ryan adjusted the work surface in all directions to ensure it was perfectly level. Then, he used 8 boxes of Park's Super Glaze and poured it onto the table top. Using a foam brush, Ryan brushed the glaze over the edges several times to smooth out the dips and eliminate any air bubbles. According to Ryan, "You need to babysit the edges on and off for about an hour before bubbles stop forming."
Then, Ryan let the surface cure for 72 hours before finally moving the table top onto the assembled pipe desk frame.
Ryan spray painted the pipe, used for the desk frame, in black and then used a black sharpie marker to fix any scratches made from assembling the frame.
The final desk is 6'x6' but can be modified if needed. The main surface is 6' long by 30" deep and the smaller surface is 42" long by 24" deep.
"So far the desk has worked awesome! It's a shame it's in my office rather than in a heavier traffic area of the house!"
Fittings and Pipe Used in the Desk Frame
Below, are all of the fittings and pipe used in the desk frame. Ryan used Plastic Plugs to cap the exposed ends of pipe, at the bottom of the frame, to keep it from scratching the tile floor. If you're planning on building a desk similar to Ryan's, you may want to do the same, but it is not completely necessary.
Assembling the Desk Frame
To assemble the desk frame, follow the diagram below. As with any Kee Klamp project, the exact order in which you assemble your project can depend on how you would to approach the assembly process. However, we have illustrated what we believe to be the best approach, essentially building the frame in sections and then joining them together.
Once the frame is complete, you can attach the table top using Sheeting Clips. The sheeting clip will wrap under the pipe frame and attach to the table top, providing tension that secures the table top down to the frame.
If you would like to build a desk similar to the one Ryan built, but aren't quite sure how or where to get started, try browsing through our different Kee Klamp fittings. Or, try reaching out to our projects team for help. Our team is experienced in building similar projects and offers free design assistance. You could also take a simpler approach, and just use one of our Desk & Table Frame Kits.
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