This project got stared the other day when I read and discussed a couple of posts on the Lifehacker web site about the health risks of working while sitting all the time.  I got inspired to do something about it and decided that I would build myself a desk that I could stand at.  One of the goals that I had for the desk was to make it versatile enough to be used in a number of settings.  My thought was something that I could use in my office, but might also be used with a treadmill.

In this video I talk about the idea for the standing desk:

Design

My design consisted of a telescoping pole that went from floor to ceiling and a perpendicular pole that could support a keyboard or laptop.  I sketched it out on graph paper:

Sketchup Model

Thanks to my pal Sam, the Sketchup Master, you can also download this project and play with it in Sketchup.  Download it here from the 3D Warehouse.

Building the Standing Desk

Design is one thing, implementation is another.  What I found when I went to build my desk is that the telescoping pipes did not have enough force to stabilize the unit.  Basically at this point I had two options. 1) Attach the flanges directly to the ceiling and floor or 2) build a tensioning device to tighten the vertical pole.  Both are valid options.  Because I wanted my desk to be somewhat portable, I decided to go for the tensioning option.  If that’s a little too risky for you, you can go with option one (attaching directly to the ceiling).

Parts List

In this video I talk about the advantages of using Kee Klamp and Kee Lite parts:

Basic Costs

Everyone always wants to know, how much does it cost?  For all parts for the project ~$200.

The lion share of the cost is in the pipe.  You may be able to cut costs by 1) using shorter lengths of pipe, 2) using steel instead of aluminum, 3) finding a local pipe supplier and cutting the pipe yourself.  You are paying something for the convenience of the pipe being pre-cut and sent to your house in bubble wrap!

You could also save by not doing the tensioning device and attaching the pipe directly to the ceiling.  That would eliminate all the threaded rod and hardware and perhaps even the need for the collar and the 1” – 6 foot length of pipe.  There are definitely ways to chop down the cost if this is a major factor for you.

Basic Assembly Points and Tips

A picture is worth a thousand words here.  I’ll try to refrain from being verbose.  Watch the videos, the will give you most everything you need to know.

Setup the Vertical Telescoping Pipe

Slide the 1” pipe into the 1-1/4” pipe.  You must be using SCHEDULE 40 pipe for this to work properly.  They have a near perfect telescoping relationship.  The 1” pipe should slide freely in the other pipe.

Slip the collar onto the 1” pipe and set it at the basic height for your ceiling.

In this video I talk about how the telescoping relationship works:

Slip on the L45 to the larger pipe and tighten it on at the working height of your desk (you can adjust this after it is setup).

Attach the L61-7 to the bottom of the pipe and tighten it to the pipe.

Two Options For Ceiling Attachment

In this video I overview the two attachment methods:

1. Simple / Permanent – Attach fitting to pipe and ceiling

The simplest way to attach the vertical pipe to the ceiling is just to attach the L61-6 to the 1” pipe an screw it into the ceiling.  That will give an unquestionable stability to the vertical pipe.  There are many different ways of attaching to the ceiling if you are using this method.  You could even use a LC58-6 Swivel Flange to attach to to a angled ceiling.

2. Semi-Portable – Tensioning Arrangement

I chose to be a bit more adventurous and setup a tensioning device with a threaded rod and a couple of nuts.  This arrangement is also very stable, it just requires some more attention to detail and tightening.

The picture is probably the best explanation here.  The threaded rod has two nuts.  On the bottom the nut actually sits perfectly in the 1” schedule 40 (couldn’t have been better if I planned it). On the top there is a nut, a lock washer and a regular washer (these all came in a package together.

To stabilize the rod inside the fitting I used a 1-3/8” rubber stopper (another amazing fit!!).  I drilled hole in the stopper and pushed the rod into the stopper.  The stopper keeps the rod from sliding around in the top fitting while you are tightening.  IMPORTANT: the rod is providing tension by pressing on the washer and the washer presses on the flange.  Be careful that you don’t feed the rod too far through or it may end up poking into your ceiling.

On top of the flange I placed a pad that I actually ripped off the bottom of a furniture pad (the third perfect fit in this project!).  You could use any foam rubber type material, just cut it into a circle that matches the circumference of the flange.

Create the Extending Arm Desk

I used a 4 foot section of pipe to make my desk arm.  You can see from the pictures that I could probably go shorter if I needed to.  The pipe caps are hammered into either end (put a cloth to protect the aluminum) and give the pipe a really nice finished look.

The L70-7’s are used to attach the pipe to the desk surface.  Just attach the shelf with some basic screws and tighten the arm pipe into the L70’s.

After you attach your shelf, slide the arm into the L45 on the vertical pipe, set the angles and heights and you’re pretty much ready to go!

Finishing Touches

Adjust the desk to fit your working height.  Make sure you arms are bent properly.  You have adjustability here, use it to your advantage!

The components used in this project are not “tight tolerance” which means, even after you tightened them down there is a little bit of “flex” in them in the opposing direction.  In a situation like this where there is only one support it helps to add a some shim material to make sure the pipe is perfectly level in the fitting.  I used some simple silicon plumbers pad.  You can pick it up for a $1 at the home store and all you need is a tiny piece

Stand and Work!

My experience with the desk has been fantastic so far.  I am a natural “phone pacer” so I like the idea of being able to move around a little bit while I’m working on my feet.  I find that it’s a great place to start the day, checking email, brief correspondence, writing blog posts, and doing creative work.  I find that for intense programming I still want to sit down (probably mostly because of the monitor setup), but for a lot of other tasks its great to have an alternative spot to work.

Other Ideas

If you read the original Lifehacker article, it talks not only of standing while working, but also the possibility of working on a treadmill.  I’d like to experiment with this idea to see if it’s effective and safe.  Another idea from a friend in the UK was to use a small stair stepper unit under your feet to exercise that way while standing an working.

Another idea I have is to attach another post to support a flat screen monitor.  This post would need to extend out from the pole so that it’s not right in my face, but I think it’s definitely doable and you make the desk more ergonomic by moving up the viewing area.

This type of desk configuration opens up a world of ideas.  I think of a desk that is mounted on two poles that could be adjusted up and down as needed.  There are really so many ideas of what you build with pipe and fittings.  Looking forward to hearing your response and more ideas in the comments.

Here I am in my completed office full of furniture built with Kee Klamp and Kee Lite components:

You can find out more about the desk I’m sitting at in this picture by reading my post on Building and Ergonomic Desk.  Check out the Flickr set of photos for more pictures.

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jtwanderlust on Instructables built this really nice looking bed frame made from pipe and Kee Klamp fittings.  His Instructable takes you from start to finish, showing you all the steps and pitfalls of the project.   We love to see this kind of ingenuity among our customers.  Our compliments to jtwanderlust.

See similar projects in our project gallery and browse for kee klamp and kee lite fittings in our store.

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Robert Gutmann constructed this modern shelf and desk using pipe, glass, and Kee Klamp fittings.  Kee Klamp fittings create an interesting modern look and also allow for simple and straight forward construction.  This particular shelf and desk was built in an apartment on Broadway in New York City.

If you are interested in modern furniture design, search our blog for other products as well as check out our steel and aluminum fittings.

Construction Pictures

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As a web developer, I spend LOTS of time at the keyboard.   For me, having an ergonomic computer desk is an absolute essential.  Recently, making the transition to working full time for myself, I decided that I needed a quality computer desk that would be adjustable and ergonomic.  I quickly found myself frustrated with the high cost of ergonomic desks on the market.

Researching desks started to give me an idea of what I did and did not want in a computer desk.  After a discussion with a friend I decided to make the plunge into building a desk to fit my needs.

Basic Strategy

I’m not a woodworker at heart, so I knew I needed to keep the construction of the desk simple.  I decided to build the desk legs and foundation using Kee Klamp fittings and fence post.  The aesthetic look isn’t for everyone, but it makes construction MUCH EASIER. Building the foundation of the desk is as simple as cutting some pipe and using an Allen wrench.

For the desk top I used a custom cut piece of MDF that I primed, painted and sealed (a must if you are using MDF).

To make the desk ergonomic I custom cut some of the remaining MDF into a keyboard tray and bought an articulating keyboard adjustable unit.

Getting Started

The first thing I did was make a plan.  I drew out several sketches on some graph paper to see how I wanted the desktop surface to look.  Having a particular space in mind, I made one side of the desk longer than the other.

Here’s my drawing:

Cutting the Top

After I had my design, I marked the outline onto a  4×8 sheet of MDF.  I used the top of a coffee can as a stencil for my rounded corners.

I supported it on saw horses and made the first couple of straight cuts with a circular saw.  I used a straight edge to guide the circular saw so that the edges were perfectly straight.

Then I used a HIGH QUALITY jig saw with a SHARP BLADE to cut out the curves and corners.

TIP: You need to be careful with how you support MDF — it is not as study as plywood and could crack if mishandled.

TIP: I borrowed a high quality jig saw. The performance of a high quality jig saw with a sharp blade is astounding compared to a cheaper unit.

An idea I got while cutting the desk was to include a section in the back for cord management.  I cut out an inch deep section in the back of the desk to accommodate power cords and various cables running off the desk.

With that, the initial cut of the top was finished.

At this point the desk had a rough edge.  I wanted a nice rounded edge.  Thankfully, a friend of mine had a high quality router.  With a simple pass around the edge, the desk top went from a rough cut piece of material to a smooth edged desktop.

Attaching the Base

At this point we were ready to start attaching the fittings that would connect the legs to the desk top.  I spaced out the Kee Klamp L61-7 fittings on the bottom of the desktop and screwed them in with 3/4″ #10 wood screws.

The fence post was cut (you can use a pipe cutter or a sawz-all — or just have the home center do it for you) to just under the desktop height (measure a height that works for you) and then attached to the fittings.

A Word About Kee Klamp Fittings and Fence Post

I chose to use Kee Klamp fittings on this project for several reasons.

1. They are easy to use.  I’m not a carpenter, so it was a quick and easy way to build a study foundation for a desk that would look good.  Kee Klamp fittings slip onto pipe and then “bite down” into the pipe with a set screw.  Normally they are used as an alternative to welding in the handrail world, but they work great for all sorts of DIY projects as well.

2. I am partner in a company that distributes them so I get a pretty good discount on them (if you’re a DIYer, mention this post and I’ll cut you 10% discount on the parts).  They can be expensive, but when you consider the time and resources saved in other areas I think they are “worth” the investment.  Literally, it took me minutes to get the desk upright once the desktop was cut out.

3. The Aluminum fittings (Kee Lite) have some aesthetic value for a modern looking office.

4. The size 7 (1 1/4″) fittings work well with fence post.  I used about 3 1/2 – 8 foot lengths of galvanized fence posts that can be obtained at any home store.  Fence post is a lot cheaper than the using galvanized schedule 40 pipe (not to mention it’s easier to work with too).

Building the Base

The base consisted of six uprights with a pipe running between each of the uprights. The cross supports made the entire unit very stable.  They are necessary so that the horizontal forces on the desk (like when moving it) are not placed upon the MDF.  I think without the cross supports it would be easy for the MDF top to crack and break.

The pipe is held in the fittings with a set screw that is tightened down with a standard allen wrench.

Here the cross supports are added with Kee Klamp L10-7 Fittings.  They were staggered in height for even greater stability.   Once the desk is in its final location the fittings can be adjusted and retightened.

Painting the Desk

Painting the MDF desktop is a must. Without paint, the first time you set a glass of water on your desk you’ll really wish you hadn’t!  The MDF grain swells very easily and also continues to put off dust.

I painted the desk top in a thee part process.

1) Primed with a NON WATER BASED – BIN Primer
2) Painted with an Indoor Latex Paint
3) Finished with a Polycrylic to provide a protective finish.

I put one coat of primer on the surface and two on the edges, sanding lightly in between each coat.  I also wiped the surfaces down with a tack cloth.  Using a mini roller made the paint go on quickly and smoothly.

When I was painting both sides (for the keyboard tray and shelves), I supported them with nails driven into the saw horses.  This allowed minimal damage to the underside of the painted surface.

Here is the paint and Polycrylic that I used.

Finished Painting:

Finishing Touches

At this point the basic desk was done.  Now the only thing that needed to be added was the keyboard tray.  I ordered an articulating unit from www.ergoindemand.com.  I found their customer service people very helpful.

Here is the unit I ordered.

Here is the desk in place, ready for keyboard tray.

Once the desk is in place, I adjusted the cross pieces to make sure that they were spaced properly and evenly.

First I screwed the unit into the bottom of the keyboard tray.

Then I screwed the track onto the bottom of the desk.

The keyboard tray slid right into the track and worked perfectly.

The cord management cut also worked very well.

In order to keep the pipe from ruining the floor, I also added some plastic pipe end caps to make the desk easier to move around.

Admiring the Finished Product

To finish it off I laid down some laminate floor so that my chair would roll.   I made the extra shelves out of MDF in hopes of using them down the road (that’ll be another post).

Desk setup with 22″ wide screen monitors and ergonomic mouse and keyboard.

At the time of writing I have been using the setup for about two weeks and am very happy with how everything turned out.

Counting the Cost

I mentioned that this was cheaper than buying your own ergonomic desk.  The cheapest ergonomic desk that I could find was around $600 (not including shipping), so what did this desk cost:

1. 1pc. – 4×8 MDF – $25
2. 10pc. – L10-7 Tee Fitting – $80
3. 6pc. -  L61-7 Flange – $65
4. 6pc – 77-7 Plastic Plug – $9
5. 4pc – 8ft Fence Post – $35
6. Various Paint Supplies – $30
7. Articulating Keyboard Unit – $100

Total Cost: ~ $350

$350 is NOT Cheap, but it is less expensive than the ergonomic desks that I could find on the market.  Of course that also doesn’t include the fact that you get the satisfaction of building it yourself and customizing the desk to fit your space.

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We have added a new kit from Kee Industrial Products to our web site:

This rear projection screen kit debuted at the recent 2007 Fastener Trade Show held at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas. It was the hit of the show. Obviously, the value at a trade show is that the exhibitor does not need to rent an expensive LCD panel or even worse yet… try to carry a big flat panel to the show. The ROI payback is less than one trade show. The exhibitor can also use a simple laptop and LCD projector (something that most sales people have access to and travel with nowadays).

This screen frame is made with durable 1″ anodized aluminum schedule 40 pipe just as you see in the photo. The actual screen is a 36″ diagonal (or 22″ X 29” rectangle) and has a hologram look to it. The novelty catches the eye of the “show goer” and draws attention to your product line and company. This is also great for portable use on conference rooms, small rooms or even at home.

Kit includes frame, screen and base.

Here is a cart used by the Kee operation in Canada. It has a place for your laptop as well as a complete array of tools. It is on casters so that it can easily be moved around the warehouse. How would you like to see this thing in your shop!!!

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A couple of weekends ago I got around to building a laundry sorter out of PVC. It has a story behind it. If you would like to see step by step instructions of the project please click here.

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This is a picture of a Ron Arad Modern Bed Design. Ron Arad is an English designer who used Kee Klamp fitting in a number of his designs. The bed design is simple and unique. If you are interested in purchasing the original you can click here. Many thanks to Graham Mancha for use of the pictures.

If you are interested in designing a product with Kee Klamp fittings, please contact us. We would like to talk to you about the possibilities of using this unique product in your next furniture design. For other furniture designs see: Vogel Bed (Modern Canopy Bed) & Logue Studio (Modern Media Platforms)

Found via materialicio.us

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Andy Lee is a young designer who is designing simple furniture from plywood. This furniture has a simple, modern look and requires no fasteners or glue. You can find out more about Andy Lee and his designs by visiting his web site: www.andyleedesign.com. You can also purchase his work through our web site in the Furniture section of our site.

You can also read about him in issue #9 of MAKE magazine: click here.

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This desk will be featured on Ron Hazelton’s HouseCalls.  Check out more about this project on the Ron Hazelton Project Page.  If you have questions about building this desk, something similar, or anything at all, please feel free to contact us.

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